Lights and Signals

Having been a driver for so many years (professional, private, for work, for pleasure, and otherwise), I often come across ambiguity, or sometimes downright confusion, with people who don’t know (don’t care?) what certain signals mean from other drivers.

Sure we all know the ‘typical’ hand gestures, often rude, rarely helpful, but did you know there’s actually a meaning behind what you’re doing with your lights?
Let’s start with defining terms:

Turn Signals:
When you activate your turn signals (or blinkers), you’re letting the drivers around you know that you intend to move or turn in that direction. Note that this signals intention, and does not give you license to move freely into otherwise occupied space. Left turn signal for a left turn or movement, right turn signal for a right turn or movement.

Hazards:
Hazard lights (Or flashers) are usually the same physical lights as your turn signals, but when you activate the Hazard lights, all four lights should flash at once (left turn, front & rear, right turn front & rear). Hazards should only be used to signal that you are a hazard to the drivers around you.

Marker Lamps:
Also known as ‘parking lamps’, these are the first stage of your two-stage headlight switch, and when activated, should show two solid orange lights up front, and two solid red lights in the rear. Note that these lights are often the same as your brake or turn signal lights, but are about half as bright. These lights are designed to ‘mark’ your vehicle, or to show other vehicles where your vehicle is.

Headlights:
Headlights (or Low-beams) are the front facing white lights, generally between 16″ and 28″ above street level (check your local legal library for specific measurements in your are), and are used to illuminate the roadway in front of you so you can see in less-than-light conditions.

High-beams:
High beams are the ‘high’ or ‘bright’ lights you use when it’s really dark outside, AND, there’s no other vehicles around you. You can read my other post for more info there. High beams are designed to give you maximum illumination when it’s very dark , and should not be used around oncoming or nearby traffic.

Fog lights:
Fog lights are a second, optional, set of lights situated low to the ground, and usually directly under the headlights. They’re often white, sometimes yellow or orange, and they’re designed to cut through heavy fog and illuminate the road in front of you.

Dip:
To ‘dip’ your lights is to flash them in an intentional manner, usually for a full second, perhaps two, and it simply means to change the state of your lights. So if your headlights are on and you want to signal to someone with your headlights, you would turn your headlights off, on again, off, and on again, in a smooth, steady sequence. This lets other drivers know that the change in light was intentional, and allows them to understand the signal you’re conveying.

Flash:
To flash your lights, typically your high beams, you want to activate and de-activate them as quickly as possible. Most vehicles these days have the headlight switch combined with the turn signal activator, so a tiny touch will usually do the trick.

Now that you know the terms and purpose of the different lights, let’s talk about what those lights are communicating:

Turn Signals:
These are used to indicate intention to turn, or change lanes, and should always be used so that other drivers can adjust if needed. Keep in mind that turn signals are merely an indication of intention, and do not give you license or right to interfere with other drivers.
If you’re in the passing lane (far left), and you’d like to pass the person in front of you, after you make sure they can move to the right, you would turn on your left turn signal; this is a polite of way saying, “Excuse me, I would like to pass”.

Marker lamps:
These are used to ‘mark’ the position of your vehicle, and should be used all the time, or anytime the sun is not shining brightly. This is especially true for dark or neutral colored vehicles in cloudy, rainy, foggy, or less-than-light conditions, so that other vehicles can clearly distinguish your vehicle from the background.
You can ‘dip’ your marker lights three times to signal a thank you, or an apology if you got too close to someone, or dip them twice to signal to someone on foot who is looking for your vehicle (this usually works best in the dark).
If you see someone dip their marker lights (which would include their headlights) five times, they’re signalling that you have an issue with your lights, and you should immediately head somewhere safe to check your lights.

Headlights:
Headlights are used to illuminate your path so you can see where you’re going. You should always drive in such a way that you can stop inside of what your headlights show you, otherwise, you’re ‘overdriving your headlights’.
If someone has just passed you, and you want to signal that they’re clear to move over, you would dip your headlights twice, but make sure they’re looking in their mirror first, or else they won’t see you. You might also reserve this for times when traffic is heavy, it’s dark, and/or there’s some precedence for the assistance.
If the driver flashers their marker lights three times, that’s their way of saying thank you.

High Beams:
The only time you should use your high beams for a signal is to alert other drivers of DANGER. Keep in mind that high beams are bright, and will often impair the vision of other drivers, so it can be seen as an aggressive tactic by police officers.
If you are a danger to other vehicles, such as when you’re sliding down an icy road towards an intersection, flashing your high beams at a high rate is a great way to get peoples attention. Couple this with your Hazard lights, and you’re conveying that you’re a dangerous hazard, and other drivers should avoid you.
DO NOT flash your high beams to let an overtaking driver know they’re clear to move over; it prevents them from seeing clearly, and conveys that there is danger, which of course if true if you’re the bad driver blinding people!
DO NOT flash your high beams at people you wish to pass, expect for emergency situations. Flashing your high beams at people is often seen as aggressive driving, and should only be used in an actual emergency.
During the daytime, you can tap your high beams twice from a distance to alert oncoming traffic that there is some danger up ahead; most notably used for alert that there is police activity, this can also be used for any danger that oncoming traffic is approaching. Do make the effort to keep it within one mile of the scene or site so you don’t get everyone riled up over nothing.

Fog Lights:
Because not all vehicles come equipped with fog lights, there’s no set meaning for them. You may have something worked out with friends and family, but expect that most people don’t associate any message with them.
The only common use I have for them is when i’m closely following someone, i’ll leave my headlights off and my fog lights on, both to avoid blinding them with my headlights, and to let them know i’m in ‘follow mode’. This is primarily a tactical use, and when I separate from them, they’ll know because I will turn my headlights on.
Another good use is in dense traffic, or urban areas; leave your headlights off, and just use your fog lights, as there’s plenty of light, and headlights often interfere with other drivers vision in dense traffic. Use this one with caution; it’s not often enforced in my experience, but it is a traffic violation.

Back it up, buddy.

So often I see people driving or towing an RV, and just like poor quality work, they’ll tell on you, just as soon as you try to back it up.

Please don’t assume i’m being an ass about this, I get that some folks can’t back up. I used to be one of those folks, and I fixed it. I’ve also trained a bunch of those folks, and they fixed it, too.

Backing is easy, if you’ll just focus on the principles, and PRACTICE. Notice which word is in all caps? Yeah. That’s the key part, right there.

Anytime you have a chance, go to a truck stop, go way in the back where there’s a bunch of empty spot, pick one, and back into it. Practice, watch what happens, and then practice some more. Get good at it by challenging yourself to get your rig in the spot in less times than you have axles. Have three axles? No more than three pull-ups. Have five axles? Fine, you get five.

1) Remember that when you’re backing, it’s all about positioning the non-turning wheels. With a Motorhome, this means putting the rear, or drive wheels, where you need them, using the front, steering, wheels to do that.

2) If you have a trailer, put your hand on the BOTTOM of the steering wheel, and move your hand in the direction you want the BACK of the trailer to go. See how that works? Like a charm.

3) Start in a wide open area, like a big parking lot, and practice staying inside the lines. Once you can do that, you can back anywhere you can fit.

4) Whenever possible, have a spotter. A spotters job is simply to look where you can’t readily see, to be always in your line of sight and out of your way, and let you know you’re about to mess up, BEFORE you mess up (critical timing right there, the BEFORE part).

5) BREATHE. For the love of (insert thing of choice here), BREATHE, dude. It’s just driving in reverse, and YOU CAN DO THIS. Seriously, just relax, breathe, and give yourself plenty of room to maneuver. You’ve got this!

I have four axles on my rig, but I back it in the first time, with a pull-up now and then. Go ahead, challenge me 😉

Come to think of it…

So it’s recently come across my brain desk that I should start making posts about my particular adventure, since it is, after all, a BLOG. So, here goes…

I’m currently working through a Workmans COmp case due to an injury at work. While I won’t go into details here (since the case is pending/working/driving me nuts), but I can certainly talk about how that affects my life as an RV’er.

I suffered a back injury at work, and i’m in a state where I can still function, but I cannot lift anything more than a few pounds, I can’t climb, and I have to be considerate in any moving/twisting/torquing activity. While this does place a severe limit on what I can do, it does not change my ‘can-do’ attitude; it just means I have to figure out a different way to get things done.

Thankfully, my rig was already well setup for a situation where i’m ‘limited-duty’, with things like electric slides, electric jack, and an electric awning (should I choose to use it, which isn’t likely here in the woods of West Georgia!). The stabilizer jacks are manual, but I used my Ryobi 18V electric drill, and Camco 3/4″ hex to socket adapter to run the stabilizers down, and with some specific body positioning, I was able to do this without hurting my back any further!

I’ll continue to add posts about myself and my adventure, along with other tips and tricks I have to share, but know that RV’ing is something that can be done by just about anyone, and if you’re not sure how to get started or going, drop me a line and i’ll help you along the way! 🙂

 

Navigation

In any community that deals with any kind of driving, we often hear of people talking about ‘distracted driving’, and while they’re most often speaking of smart phones, there are other devices that can cause a distraction, and i’d like to talk about one of those today: GPS/Navigation devices.

While I do not fault people for using some form of digital navigation, GPS, or combination device, I do want to caution you: Most devices are not designed for larger vehicles, such as commercial trucks, motor homes, travel trailers, or other RV’s. “So, Daniel, what do we do about this?” Well faithful reader, i’m glad you asked! This is a fairly simple fix, and there’s only three key pieces of information you really need to know:

1) Overall height: The overall height of the vehicle should be measured on mostly level ground, from the top of the highest point of your rig, down to the ground. Be sure to keep in mind A/C units, satellite domes, or other devices mounted on your roof. I recommend a sticky label on your dashboard with the OverAllHeight on it so when you forget, you have an easy reference when you’re driving.

2) Length: It’s a good idea to know how long your rig from tip to tail, or front most protrusion to rear-most protrusion, as well as distance between axles. Typically you won’t need that information on the Interstate system, but if you decice to venture off onto the US or State highway systems, you’re likely to come to a crossing of some kind that dictates how much you can weigh, how long you can be, or some formula involving both of those factors.

3) Weight: GVWR, or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, is the maximum your vehicle can weigh and still operate within its specifications. This is especially important when towing a trailer, as you do not want to exceed the GVWR of the tow vehicle. Knowing the max you can weigh is helpful for places where your “licensed” weight is limited, but knowing how much your rig actually weighs (called actual weights) is just as important. You can find the GVWR on the stickers on your vehicle(s), and you can find your actual weight by loading up your rig as you normally would (be sure to top off the fresh water tank(s) if you normally travel with water!) and running across a scale at a truck stop (be sure to go inside and let them know you’re doing a non-commercial weigh, first).

Knowing your facts will help you decide if it’s safe to make that crossing, and knowing your route will help you put you at ease and get you where you want to go safely. If you do use a digital navigation device, do be sure to browse over your route for potential issues before you start driving, and keep your eyes sharp for issues along the way that your nav device can’t tell you about.

Happy trails! 😀

Knock out the Lock outs!

I read and hear stories all the time about people locking themselves out of their rigs, and I think, “Well, you need a lock out system!”.
What’s a lock out system? Well dear reader, i’m glad you asked!
A lock out system is a system you’ve put in place that allows you to gain entry into your rig without ONLY the knowledge in your head, and nothing else. It’s important to think this through, and create something that’s secure, but also simple enough for you to remember.
One example is to use a magnetic hide-a-key device with a spare compartment key in it. Inside one of your compartments, in a place that’s not easily seen unless you know where to look, you have a spare door key, and this two-step system allows you to regain access to your rig without keys, tools, a phone, or anything else; just the knowledge that you can never again be locked out of your rig! 🙂
If your rig is a MH, you should take the extra step of hiding a spare ignition key inside the rig somewhere, perhaps in a coded safe, so that you can get to it if you need to, but no one without the knowledge can get to it.

Take time to set up a lock out system today so you don’t get locked out tomorrow!

Feel free to get in touch for help in setting up your very own lock out system. 🙂

Spare Key

So most of us Wind Turbine Techs drive these big fancy pick up trucks, and they come with a key fob (The Ram trucks do anyway). Inside of that key fob, there’s a spare key that’s designed to allow you to unlock the door. May I suggest that you remove that spare key, place it in a magnetic hide-a-key box, and hide that somewhere on your truck?

Do be sure to hide it somewhere out of sight, and somewhere that if it were to fall (since we spend so much time on bumpy roads) it would be caught by another part, like in the rear bumper, or under the bed rail.

You’re welcome. 🙂

Knowledge is power…. right?

FINALLY got my MRI results, and now we know: I have two bulged discs (the very bottom ones), and the lowest one has a small tear inside. They tell me surgery isn’t likely, and we’re looking at 6-24 months to heal.

So, this news is good news, and gives me some more data to plan with.

Welcome

Hello, and welcome to my blog! I’m a Travelling Wind Technician, and I travel all over the country in my 32′ Holiday Rambler Travel Trailer. I’m currently on hiatus due to an at-work injury, so i’m ‘laying over’ in Georgia while I heal.

My blog is my outlet of expression to share my experience, my adventure, and hopefully some useful tips along the way!

If you have a particular question or topic you’d like me to cover in my blog, please let me know using the form below.

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Closet door shelves! :D

I’ve been looking all over for shelves to attach to the inside of my closet door for a few months new, and I FINALLY found some that work. Not only do they work, they’re AWESOME.

The shelves I bought are from Lowes, stock# 0571429, and I think they’ll work just about anywhere.

 

The install is fairly simple for a DIY’er, though some thought and care should be put into drilling and screwing in your RV, just because of all the issues that can arise from a mis-placed screw. The screws that came with the shelf set were too long, and would have gone through my door, so I used some self-tapping metal screws that I like for a lot of things (the metal part refers to what material the screw is designed to attach).

 

I also opted not to hang them, because I wanted the top of the vertical supports to start below the top of the door, so I just mounted the rails directly to the door with screws. I also added an extra screw in the middle of each rail for more support, just to be sure the weight of all the stuff I put in there doesn’t rip them down. As always with an RV, consider the forces working on the parts while travelling rough roads and/or making sudden maneuvers.

I’m very happy with my finished product, but since it’s adjustable, i’m not sure I can truly call it ‘finished’! 😛

 

Once I started putting stuff in the shelves, I made a few adjustments, and then put MORE stuff in the shelves!

Then I checked again to make sure I could close the door completely, (I can!)

and that I could swing it to full open position and walk past it when I want to, which I can also do!

 

Simple, strong, and versatile, i’d suggest adding these to the inside of any swinging closet door for all the extra space!